Speed Ascent Via Disappointment Cleaver:
August 9th, 2004 4:59:01 RT
Method:
Montrail Masai trail running shoes and Nike Javelin shoes with 5/8
inch spikes.
Start Time:
6:00 AM
Pre-start
MPEG
Splits:
1:34 min. Camp Muir
2:35 min. Top Disappointment Cleaver
3:33 min. Summit
4:18 min. Camp Muir
4:59:01 sec. Paradise Lot
End Time:
10:59 AM
Post-finish
MPEG
Rainier Speed Ascent via Disappointment Cleaver:
The following is my account of my Mt. Rainier speed ascent on August
9th, 2004:
At 6:00 A.M. I left the Paradise parking lot. I wore Montrail
trail running shoes on the trail run up to Pebble Creek. I switched
into Javelin shoes with spikes for the Muir snowfield and glaciers
on the upper mountain. The day was warm with the expected freezing
level to be higher than the summit. I wore light weight pants and
silkweight long underwear and a thin pair of Outdoor Research gloves.
I carried two liters of water, a set of poles (one fixed with a Black
Diamond 'whippet', the other a lightened MSR), my minidisk player,
a wind breaker, two bars and a GU.
I reached Camp Muir (10,188 ft) at 7:34 A.M. and continued to the
top of the Disappointment Cleaver in 61 minutes from Camp Muir and
then 57 minutes to the true summitt, for a total ascent time of 3hrs.
and 33 minutes from the Paradise parking lot. There were a few people
at the summit
register that entered my name for me as I passed by on the desent,
I never asked for their names, but thanks! I ran from the summit to
Camp Muir in forty-five minutes for an elapsed time of 4:18 hrs safely
crossing all of the notable cravasses. I passed many guided parties
on the descent from the summit and appreciated their encouragement
along with the urging from the Muir Climbing Rangers as I ran through
camp. The snow conditions were soft and I was able to make it down
from Muir to Pebble Creek in 20 minutes flat. I changed back into
my running shoes for the remaining descent. I made a better time on
the lower part of the trail by using trail runners instead of leather
boots like I used in '98.
I arrived in the parking lot at 10:59:01 A.M. setting a new record
and my personal best. I felt like my prior experience was crucial
for an improved pace. My goal was to break the five hour barrier and
I succeeded on a perfect day. I am very satisfied with my accomplishment.
I intentionally chose to not use any "timing officials"
to "officiate" my climb as I believe that climbing community
has always relied upon the integrity and reputation of the climber
to validate their accomplishments.
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