Home     Profile     News     Dispatches     Gallery     Partners     Contact  

  Resume     Rainier    Denali    Khan Tengri   


Speed Ascent Via Disappointment Cleaver:
August 9th, 2004 4:59:01 RT

Method:
Montrail Masai trail running shoes and Nike Javelin shoes with 5/8 inch spikes.

Start Time:
6:00 AM
Pre-start MPEG


Splits:
1:34 min. Camp Muir
2:35 min. Top Disappointment Cleaver
3:33 min. Summit
4:18 min. Camp Muir
4:59:01 sec. Paradise Lot


End Time:
10:59 AM
Post-finish MPEG



Rainier Speed Ascent via Disappointment Cleaver:

The following is my account of my Mt. Rainier speed ascent on August 9th, 2004:

At 6:00 A.M. I left the Paradise parking lot. I wore Montrail trail running shoes on the trail run up to Pebble Creek. I switched into Javelin shoes with spikes for the Muir snowfield and glaciers on the upper mountain. The day was warm with the expected freezing level to be higher than the summit. I wore light weight pants and silkweight long underwear and a thin pair of Outdoor Research gloves. I carried two liters of water, a set of poles (one fixed with a Black Diamond 'whippet', the other a lightened MSR), my minidisk player, a wind breaker, two bars and a GU.

I reached Camp Muir (10,188 ft) at 7:34 A.M. and continued to the top of the Disappointment Cleaver in 61 minutes from Camp Muir and then 57 minutes to the true summitt, for a total ascent time of 3hrs. and 33 minutes from the Paradise parking lot. There were a few people at the summit register that entered my name for me as I passed by on the desent, I never asked for their names, but thanks! I ran from the summit to Camp Muir in forty-five minutes for an elapsed time of 4:18 hrs safely crossing all of the notable cravasses. I passed many guided parties on the descent from the summit and appreciated their encouragement along with the urging from the Muir Climbing Rangers as I ran through camp. The snow conditions were soft and I was able to make it down from Muir to Pebble Creek in 20 minutes flat. I changed back into my running shoes for the remaining descent. I made a better time on the lower part of the trail by using trail runners instead of leather boots like I used in '98.

I arrived in the parking lot at 10:59:01 A.M. setting a new record and my personal best. I felt like my prior experience was crucial for an improved pace. My goal was to break the five hour barrier and I succeeded on a perfect day. I am very satisfied with my accomplishment.

I intentionally chose to not use any "timing officials" to "officiate" my climb as I believe that climbing community has always relied upon the integrity and reputation of the climber to validate their accomplishments.



© 2005 chadkellogg.com All rights reserved