| Resume Rainier Denali Khan Tengri First Ascents, Speed Records and Significant Climbs: |
| Peak/Route/Grade | Country/Range | Year Climbed | Year Guided |
| First Ascent: 'Lara Shan'
- North Face Route named "American Standard" (19,000 ft.) |
China/Qionglai Mountains | 2007 | |
| Mount Rainier
- "Ptarmigan Ridge" |
Cascades | 2007 | |
| X-Mass Chopping - M 8- |
Canadian Rockies/Bear Spirit | 2007 | |
| Red Man Soars
- 5.10- WI 4+ (M 5+) |
Canadian Rockies/Opal Creek | 2007 | |
| Malignant Mushroom - WI 5 |
Canadian Rockies/South Ghost | 2007 | |
| Super Bock
- WI 5+ |
Canadian Rockies/Field | 2007 | |
| Carlsberg Column
- WI 5 |
Canadian Rockies/Field | 2007 | |
| Mount Dickey - "South Face"
- 2,000 ft attempt at new route on 5,000 ft face |
Alaska Range/Ruth Gorge | 2006 | |
| Whiteman Falls
- WI 6 |
Canadian Rockies/Opal Creek
|
2006 | |
| Weeping Wall - Right Side
- WI 5 |
Canadian Rockies/Mt. Wilson | 2006 | |
| First Ascent: 'Daogou Main'
- Route named "Salvage Op" (5.10D, 17 pitches - 17,930 ft.) |
China/Siguniang Shan | 2005 | |
| First Ascent: 'The Angry Wife' - Route named "Raindog Arete" (5.10C, 10 pitches - 16,600 ft.) |
China/Siguniang Shan | 2005 | |
| Camel Peak (17,990 ft.) |
China/Siguniang Shan | 2005 | |
| Kichatna Spire - New route
named "The Black Crystal Arete" (5.10C, A2 25 pitches) |
Kichatna Range | 2005 | |
| Luktse - New route via North Ridge (20,300 ft.) |
Tibet | 2004 | |
| El Capitan - North American Wall (Grade VI, C3 5.10) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 2004 | |
| Mt. Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver | Cascades | 2004 - Speed Record | |
|
K2 - Abruzzi Ridge Attempt high point Camp 2 |
Pakistan/Karakoram Range | 2004 | |
|
Broad Peak - North Summit (26,500 ft) without oxygen |
Pakistan/Karakoram Range | 2004 | |
| Mt. Francis - West Ridge to East Ridge traverse | Alaska Range | 2004 | |
| North Face of Greybeard 3rd ascent | North Cascades | 2004 | |
| Pobeda - 24,500 ft.- (Solo) | Kyrgyzstan/Tien ShanRange | 2003 | |
| Khan
Tengri - 23,100 ft. N. Ridge to W. Ridge (Solo Traverse) |
Kazakhstan/Tien Shan Range | 2003 | |
| Mt. McKinley - 20,320 ft. Upper W. Rib |
USA/Alaska Range | 2003 | |
| Mt. McKinley - 20,320 ft. West Buttress (Solo) |
USA/Alaska Range | 2003 – Speed Record | 2003 |
| Mt. McKinley - 20,320 ft. West Buttress |
USA/Alaska Range | 2002 | |
| Aconcagua - 22,800 ft. Regular Route | Argentina/Andes | 1999 | 2000, 1999 |
| Aconcagua Polish Traverse | Argentina/Andes | 2000 | |
| Aconcagua Polish Direct - (Solo) | Argentina/Andes | 2000 | |
| Mt. Hunter - 14,490 ft. West Ridge (Alaska Grade III) |
USA/Alaska Range | 1999 | |
| El Cap Tangerine Trip (Grade VI, A2+) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1999 | |
| Cotopaxi - 19,000 ft. | Ecuador/Andes | 1999 | 1999 |
| Chimborazo - 20,500 ft. | Ecuador/Andes | 1999 | |
| Cayambe - 18,000 ft. | Ecuador/Andes | 1999 | |
| Mt. Rainier
- 14,411 ft. 76 summits (13 routes) |
USA/Cascade Range | 1998 - Speed
Record (2 winter solo summits) |
1998-01 (14 summits) |
| Mt. Baker - 10,781 ft. | USA/Cascade Range | 1998-00 (11 summits) |
|
| Mt. Adams - 12,276 ft. | USA/Cascade Range | 1998-00 | |
| Mt. Shuksan - 9,127 ft. | USA/Cascade Range | 1998-00 (3 summits) |
|
| Ama Dablam - 22,640 ft. | Nepal/Himalayan Range | 1998 (2 solo summits) | |
| El Cap Wall of Early Morning Light (Grade VI, A3+) | USA/Yosemite Valley | 1998 | |
| El Cap Zodiac (Grade V, A2+) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1997 | |
| Lost Arrow Direct (Grade V, C2+) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1998 | |
| Washington Column 10 Days After (Grade V, A3) - (Solo) | USA/Yosemite Valley | 1997 (First solo ascent) |
|
| El Cap The Nose (Grade VI, A1) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1996 | |
| Higher Cathedral NE Buttress (Grade V, 5.10) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1996 | |
| Sentinel Steck-Salathe (Grade V, 5.10) |
USA/Yosemite Valley | 1996 | |
Mountain Guide Alpine Ascents International - 2003 - 2007 Mountain Madness - 1998 - 2000 Cascade Alpine Guides - 1998 Worked as professional mountain guide, leading and participating in many successful expeditions in North America, South America and the Himalayas. Primary duties were to design and teach curriculum in mountaineering and rock climbing, specializing in high altitude climbing up to 6900m. Responsible for all expedition planning, logistics and operations both domestically and abroad. Additional duties included: educating clients on the biology, geology, natural history and cultural aspects of the travel site, implementing safety procedures, and providing emergency medical attention in remote areas. (Sample of peaks guided) Available to guide and/or instruct courses nationally & internationally. Curriculums: 2-day rescue course 6-day mountaineering skills course, altitude training 3-day snow and ice 1-3 day beginning rock and advanced rock Climbing Ranger Mt. Rainier National Park - 1997 & 1998 Responsible for climbing/patrolling established routes on Mt. Rainier, on a weekly basis in order to assess conditions and hazards to climbers. Educated climbers on risks, safety issues, and mountain protocol. Enforced all park laws and regulations. Provided emergency medical and evacuation assistance to those in need, by ground and helicopter. Have 76 ascents on Mt. Rainier, via 13 different routes, including 3 winter ascents. Have 13 snowboard descents. Speed ascent on the Disappointment Cleaver at 4hrs and 59min roundtrip. Rescue experience: ·140+ hrs Rescue Training ·50 hrs Helicopter Operations and Rescue Training ·Certified Helicopter Technician ·160+ hrs In-Field Rescue Time ·Wilderness First Responder |
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